玛格丽特河：不拘形式，何以不损卓越
Australia's Margaret River 'proves informality need not come at the expense of excellence'
西澳大利亚玛格丽特河的首批商业葡萄藤种于 1967 年，产区年轻、偏远且缺乏沿袭历史，分享知识起初是生存必需、久而久之成了文化。十多年来，酒庄每年齐聚 Vasse Felix 盲品未完成装瓶的单一园霞多丽，对照园地、克隆、藤龄与酵母，目标是共同酿出更好的玛格丽特河霞多丽。作者写道，玛格丽特河证明了“informality need not come at the expense of excellence”（不拘形式并不以牺牲卓越为代价）：在饮酒文化转向真实与联结的当下，这种不摆架子的开放姿态正成为该产区最大的优势。
Red dirt. Four-wheel-drives. Long stretches of raw desolation and a no-nonsense culture. Western Australia’s Margaret River looks nothing like the stiff-lipped formality often associated with fine wine.
Yet as modern drinkers challenge traditional fine-wine taboos and the wider wine world scrambles to adapt, that informality looks increasingly like one of the region’s greatest strengths.
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来源：99869 编辑台 · decanter.com